The Knobbys Do the Sierra Foothills and More (Paved)

In late fall, we traded in  our dirt bikes for the big Honda Africa Twins, strapped on our TKCs, and set out to chase warm weather before winter locked us in. The plan: 2,400 miles in 10 days, almost all pavement, following the tiniest gray lines on AAA maps from Boise, Idaho, through Utah, Nevada, and California’s Sierra Foothills, up to Lake Tahoe, and back home. We’d lived in NorCal years ago, so we knew some of those twisty backroads like old friends, but most of this route was new territory. Our goal? Stay off the beaten path, keep the rubber side down, and beat the snow. Here’s how it unfolded.

Days 1-2: Boise, ID to Cedar City, UT – 695 Miles

We kicked off from home in freezing temps, the first 30 miles on icy dirt to test the new TKCs—they gripped like champs. My feet went numb breaking through frozen puddles, and my GPS flatlined 70 miles in, leaving no tracks to Boise. From there, I-84 east was a truck-filled wind tunnel, so we peeled off onto Old Hwy 30 along the Snake River—slower, scenic, and sane. Lunch at the River Boat Restaurant in Hagerman warmed us up with good soup. Thousand Springs cascaded from bluffs near Twin Falls, a geological wonder I’d chalk up to an underground river from Sun Valley, though I’m no expert. Twin Falls’ stoplights annoyed us—next time, we’ll find a bypass. Farm roads east of Murtaugh kept us off I-84 until a Snowville gas stop, landing us in Brigham City’s Hampton Inn by dark. Ricardo’s Mexican food was decent, but hair salons outnumbered open eateries.

Day 2 was a slog to Cedar City. We dodged Salt Lake’s rush hour, but my GPS crapped out again in heavy traffic. My frantic “lead me!” charades flopped. We escaped west on I-80, south on SR 36, and hit US 6—desert miles with little to see but better than interstate droning. Lunch at Delta Freeze was classic burgers and fries; memories of a senile driver ramming us there years ago kept me twitchy. In Cedar City, the Best Western Town & Country Inn was solid, Sizzler next door was hopping with seniors and teens, and Mike’s Tavern flunked the service test—we bailed after 10 minutes of “I’ll be right with you.”

Day 3: Cedar City, UT to Boulder City, NV – 215 Miles

Now the fun began. West on SR 56 past solar farms, we dipped onto 20 miles of unpaved W Pinto and Grass Valley Roads—doable on big bikes, a bit rocky but not rough. It wove through isolated ranches and high mountains, a reroute dodging a canyon my GPS missed. Pine Valley greeted us with steep, gorgeous hillsides, then SR 18 rolled through tiny Central and Veyo—dual-sport heaven we’ll revisit. Gunlock-Veyo Road twisted through Gunlock State Park, a steep hookup to Old US-91 dropping us across high desert to I-15. Gas and a killer carnitas burrito at Los Lupes in Mesquite fueled us for SR 169 and 167 through Lake Mead NRA. No toll booth staff, just rugged, colorful mountains hugging the road—Death Valley’s southern cousin. Hot windscreens and black leather roasted us, so we didn’t stop for pics. Boulder City’s Sands Motel, a renovated mid-century gem, offered peace, pipe-rack shelves, and a short walk to art deco downtown. Southwest Diner fed us cheap and well—twice.

Day 4: Boulder City, NV to Furnace Creek, Death Valley, CA – 190 Miles

We skirted Vegas on Hwy 160 over Mountain Springs Pass—scenic up high, dull desert below—then took the Old Spanish Trail through Tecopa. Hot springs folks strolled the barren flats in swimsuits; Shoshone offered gas, a museum, and live music at lunch. Artist’s Palette Drive in Death Valley was a narrow, steep, one-lane blast through colorful hills—motorhome drivers beware. Heat ruled, but Furnace Creek Inn’s $170/night balcony and spring-fed pool soothed us. Pizza and free popcorn at the bar beat pricier options; leftover slices became breakfast. Sunset by the propane firepit capped a loud night—earplugs saved my Boomer ears.

Day 5: Furnace Creek, Death Valley, CA to Isabella Lake, CA – 245 Miles

Sunrise views kicked off a climb out on SR 190—stunning drops and rises through Panamint Valley’s mountains wowed us more than photos could capture. Temps dipped; layers went on. Hwy 395 at Olancha brought gas but no open cafes, so we settled for Mobil station subs. Nine Mile Road to Sherman Pass, the southernmost Sierra crossing, climbed from 2,600 to 9,000 feet—twisty, potholed, sandy in spots, with burned patches and Kern River views. Grumpy Bears Saloon in Kennedy Meadows was a dive—hot drinks only, toilets dodged. We looped Isabella Lake to Paradise Cove Lodge, quiet with an okay restaurant, though the room needed a dust rag.

Day 6: Isabella Lake, CA to Oakhurst, CA – 250 Miles

Red Rooster Cafe fueled us up; SR 155 north was a tight, twisty dream—more forest trail than highway—climbing to 6,000 feet with zero traffic. White River, Jack Ranch, and Old Stage Roads dropped through orchards, connecting to SR 190 and a maze of backroads too jumbled to list (check the tracks). Dry Creek Road hosted a chat with two guys from China touring the U.S.—random gold nugget moment. Mountain House Cafe fed us solo in the middle of nowhere. Low gas near Pine Flat Reservoir had me sweating, but MBH routed us to Prather’s station—Twins’ fuel gauges lie. Yosemite’s granite peaks peeked from a ridge; I let the ponies run (slowly) to Oakhurst’s Best Western Yosemite Gateway. Steep parking, pricey bar, cheap Denny’s win.

Day 7: Oakhurst, CA to Angels Camp, CA – 130 Miles

A shorter day let us savor Gold Country. SR 49 to backroads past Mariposa rolled through oak hills—3D riding at its best: up, down, twist, turn. Pendola Garden Road’s dirt and creek crossing were big-bike friendly. Coulterville’s historic hotel and soup-bowl coffee paused us; Wards Ferry Road, a one-lane stage route over the Tuolumne River, stole the show—savor it slow. Jamestown’s old downtown and railroad museum charmed us; Pete’s Greek Cafe hosted a Twins Q&A from a curious rider. Columbia’s living history park tempted, but Vallecito’s one-laners past ranches and gullies won out—nuggets galore. Angels Camp’s Best Western Plus was nice, a mile from downtown. Mike’s Pizza fed us well; Election Night TV (and unbaked tomatoes) kept us in.

Day 8: Angels Camp, CA to South Lake Tahoe, CA – 180 Miles

Gold Country delivered. Missed turns (flyover oops, squirrel distractions) didn’t dim Murphys’ charm—old hotel, wine vibes. San Domingo Road’s vineyard-lined one-lane and poison oak gauntlet thrilled us; Jesus Maria Road dodged a road crew on a steep pitch to Mokelumne Hill (to-do list). Sutter Creek’s bypass left a quaint downtown; Ice Cream Emporium’s sandwiches beat overeating guilt—Mr Knobby'’s volcano kit nod recalled his gunpowder school fiasco. Charleston and Hale Roads to Fiddletown were steep, narrow gems. Sly Park to Mormon Emigrant Road climbed fast to 7,000 feet; Silver Fork and NF-71 crossed icy patches—slow and steady won. Hwy 50’s construction crawl landed us at Tahoe Lakeshore Lodge for sunset and shepherds pie at Macduffs Pub. TKCs held strong at 1,700 miles.

Days 9-10: South Lake Tahoe, CA to Boise, ID – 465 Miles + 60 Home

Frosty US 50 hugged vehicle tracks; Fernley gas and Lovelock’s Black Rock Grill lunch powered us to Winnemucca’s Best Western Gold Country Inn. Dinner at a bar (urinals in view—giggle fuel) capped Day 9. Day 10’s US 95 north hit Fort McDermitt’s new C-store and Jordan Valley’s Flat Iron Steakhouse—Basque chorizo bliss. Home beat the snow by a day.

Reflections

Ten days, 2,400 miles, all pavement—new roads, old haunts, and a warm-weather fix. Tiny gray lines delivered: twisty, empty, paved perfection. Hotels were cheap (except Death Valley), tourists scarce, and the Twins shone. We’ll do it again—those Sierra Foothills nuggets never get old. Thanks for riding along.

The End.

Mr. and Mrs. Knobby stood in their garage, staring at their matching Honda Africa Twins—machines so rugged they made their old Suzuki DR-Z400s look like children's tricycles. "You ready for this?" Mr. Knobby asked, adjusting his new adventure helmet that made him look suspiciously like a spaceman.

"Yah, you betcha," Mrs. Knobby replied, patting her Wolfman luggage like it was a loyal husky. "But if we hit one more gravel road like last time, I'm trading this bike for a La-Z-Boy with cup holders."

Day 1: Baker City, OR – Where the West Still Looks Wild
The ride through eastern Oregon was a postcard come to life—golden valleys, snow-dusted peaks, and more open road than a Minnesotan could dream of in January. The Africa Twins purred like happy lions, devouring miles with the grace of a moose on roller skates.

At the Best Western Sunridge Inn, they met a grizzled biker named "Gravel" Pete, who eyed their shiny Hondas and snorted, "Them's mighty fancy dirt bikes."

"Yah, well, your beard's mighty fancy too," Mrs. Knobby shot back, earning a grudging nod of respect.

Day 2: Enterprise, OR – Into the Wallowa Mountains
The road to Enterprise twisted like a lutefisk casserole recipe—up, down, and sideways through canyons so deep they made Mr. Knobby's stomach drop. "This is better than the Tilt-A-Whirl at the county fair!" he whooped, while Mrs. Knobby white-knuckled the handlebars and muttered something about divorce papers.

The Wilderness Inn had a hot tub overlooking the mountains. "Now this is civilization," Mrs. Knobby sighed, sinking into the bubbles. "Unless that's a bear watching us from the trees." (It was a very large shrub.)

Day 3: Dayton, WA – Wine Country (But Mostly Gravel Country)
Washington greeted them with rolling wheat fields, then promptly dumped them onto a gravel road that rattled their teeth like dice in a Yahtzee cup. "I swear that last pothole stole my left kidney," Mr. Knobby groaned.

The Dayton Motel was a vintage gem with creaky floors and a shower that alternated between "arctic blast" and "surface of the sun." "Just like camping," Mrs. Knobby said cheerfully, "but with Wi-Fi and questionable bedspreads."

Day 4: Riggins, ID – River Rats and Rugged Roads
The descent into Riggins along the Salmon River was a symphony of switchbacks and sheer drop-offs. "Don’t look down," Mr. Knobby advised, immediately looking down and regretting it.

The Big Iron Motel lived up to its name—no frills, just sturdy walls and a neon sign brighter than Mrs. Knobby’s pink flamingo lawn ornaments back home. At dinner, a local fisherman told them, "You rode those big bikes through here? You’re either brave or dumb."

"Yah," the Knobbys replied in unison. "We get that a lot."

Day 5: Garden Valley, ID – The Home Stretch (Mostly Upright)
The final leg through Idaho’s backcountry was a mix of pine-scented bliss and "where-the-heck-is-this-road-going" suspense. At one point, Mrs. Knobby’s GPS led them down a path that resembled a deer trail more than a highway. "Trust the technology," she insisted, as Mr. Knobby ducked under low-hanging branches like a man fleeing a swarm of bees.

They rolled into Garden Valley as the sun dipped behind the mountains, bikes coated in dust and souls full of scenery. "Another Knobby adventure in the books," Mr. Knobby said, raising a local microbrew.

"And we only got lost twice," Mrs. Knobby added.

"Three times," he corrected.

"Yah, well, that’s why we bought these fancy bikes—to get really lost in style."

And with that, they clinked bottles, already plotting their next escape—preferably somewhere with fewer potholes and more hot tubs.

The End. (Until next time)

The crisp autumn air held a hint of adventure as we prepped our Honda Africa Twins (CRF1000L) for a ten-day tour through Oregon and California, with a final push into Idaho. October 3rd, 2016 – the rumble of the parallel twins promising a comfortable and capable journey across diverse terrains, primarily sticking to the asphalt this time.

Our first leg was a familiar one, a good 295-mile ride north to Burns, Oregon. The Africa Twins, loaded with our gear, ate up the miles with their comfortable riding positions and smooth power delivery. The Best Western Rory and Ryan Inn in Burns offered a reliable and welcoming stop, a familiar starting point for Oregon adventures.

Day two took us southwest, a 260-mile ride to Klamath Falls, Oregon. The landscape transitioned from the high desert to more forested areas as we approached the southern Oregon Cascades. The Cimarron Inn provided a comfortable night's rest, preparing us for the winding roads of Northern California.

Crossing the state line, we embarked on a 240-mile ride to Weaverville, California. The roads became wonderfully twisty as we navigated the Trinity Alps region, the Africa Twins handling the curves with surprising agility for their size. The 49er Gold Country Inn in Weaverville offered a taste of California history and a cozy place to unwind.

Our journey then took us further west towards the Pacific coast, a 150-mile ride to Arcata, California. The air grew cooler and carried the scent of the ocean as we approached the Redwood Curtain. The Best Western Arcata Inn provided a comfortable base to explore the charming town and the nearby redwood forests.

Continuing south along the iconic Highway 101, we rode 130 miles to Garberville, California, deep in the heart of redwood country. Towering trees lined the road, creating a sense of awe and wonder. The Best Western Humboldt House Inn offered a comfortable stay amidst the natural grandeur.

Turning inland, our route took us southeast towards Lakeport, California, nestled on the shores of Clear Lake. The 180-mile ride offered a change of scenery, with rolling hills and vineyards dotting the landscape. The Rodeway Inn and Suites in Lakeport provided a comfortable lakeside stop.

Our adventure then led us back into the Sierra Nevada, a 210-mile ride to Downieville, California, a historic mining town tucked away in a picturesque valley. The roads were again a highlight, winding through forests and along mountain streams. The Carriage House Inn offered a charming and historic stay.

Climbing higher into the Sierras, we rode 190 miles to Chester, California, near the shores of Lake Almanor. The air was crisp and the fall colors were starting to appear. The Best Western Rose Quartz Inn provided a comfortable stop before our return journey north.

Our penultimate riding day was a long one, a 380-mile push back into Oregon to Burns, our starting point. The Africa Twins once again proved their long-distance touring comfort as we retraced some familiar roads. The Best Western Rory and Ryan Inn felt like a familiar haven.

Finally, on October 12th, we embarked on the last leg of our journey, a 230-mile ride north into Idaho to our destination in Garden Valley. The familiar scenery of the Boise National Forest welcomed us, marking the end of our ten-day, 2,275-mile (recalculating based on individual legs) adventure. Our Honda Africa Twins had carried us reliably through diverse landscapes, from the Oregon high desert to the California redwoods and the Sierra Nevada mountains, creating a tapestry of unforgettable memories.

The summer sun blazed as we geared up our matching Suzuki DR-Z400S motorcycles, a familiar sense of adventure tingling in the air. July 18th, 2016, marked the start of a 2,200-mile journey through the scenic landscapes of Oregon, Washington, and a brief but welcome dip into Idaho. With our trusty DR-Zs prepped, we pointed our knobby-ish tires north.

Our first leg was a 195-mile ride to Unity, Oregon. The miles unfolded, a mix of highway and winding backroads as we ventured inland. The single-cylinder thump of our DR-Zs was a constant companion, the anticipation of the journey ahead keeping us energized. The Burnt River Motel in Unity, a small and welcoming stop, provided a comfortable end to our first day.

Day two took us 142 miles to La Grande, Oregon. The scenery began to shift, with rolling hills and glimpses of the Blue Mountains in the distance. We rode in tandem, enjoying the shared experience and pulling over occasionally to soak in the views. The Best Western Plus Rama Inn and Suites in La Grande offered a more substantial town and comfortable accommodations.

Continuing north into Washington, we covered 135 miles to Dayton. The landscape transitioned again, with more agricultural land and the promise of the Palouse region ahead. The Best Western Dayton provided a pleasant overnight stop in this historic town. From there, we rode 186 miles to Ephrata, Washington. The terrain became drier, the vastness of eastern Washington stretching out before us. The Best Western Rama Inn in Ephrata offered a familiar and reliable stay.

Our route then turned westward towards the Cascade Mountains. A 149-mile ride brought us to Conconully, Washington, a charming town nestled on the shores of a beautiful lake. The Comstock Motel offered a cozy and scenic stay. The following day, a delightful 133-mile ride took us to Chelan, another picturesque lakeside town, this time on the shores of Lake Chelan. The Riverwalk Inn provided lovely accommodations with views of the water.

Continuing our westward journey, we rode 168 miles to Ellensburg, Washington. The landscape began its transformation towards the wetter, western side of the Cascades. The Best Western Lincoln Inn offered a comfortable stop before we tackled the mountain passes.

The next leg was a scenic 138-mile ride into the heart of the Washington Cascades to Packwood. The roads became wonderfully twisty as we climbed through dense forests, the air growing cooler and carrying the scent of pine. The Hotel Packwood, with its rustic charm, felt perfectly suited to the mountain setting. We enjoyed a second night in Packwood, a shorter 100-mile loop allowing us to further explore the stunning surrounding scenery, the DR-Zs feeling agile and fun on the winding forest roads.

Our journey then turned south, a 149-mile ride taking us back into Oregon to Hood River, a town famous for its windsurfing and stunning views of Mount Hood. The Best Western Hood River Inn offered fantastic vistas of the Columbia River Gorge and the majestic peak.

Continuing our southward loop through Oregon, we rode 120 miles to Detroit, a small town nestled by Detroit Lake in the Willamette National Forest. The All Seasons Motel provided a simple and comfortable stop surrounded by natural beauty. From there, we ventured into central Oregon, a 170-mile ride to Prineville. The landscape shifted again to more open, high desert terrain. The Best Western Prineville Inn offered a reliable overnight stay.

Our journey continued eastward, a 160-mile ride to John Day, Oregon. The vastness of eastern Oregon unfolded before us, with rolling hills and wide-open spaces. The Best Western John Day Inn provided a comfortable stop in this historic town. Our penultimate riding day took us 150 miles to Ontario, Oregon, a familiar stop from a previous adventure. The Best Western Plus - Ontario Inn offered a comfortable night before our final leg.

Finally, after two weeks and countless scenic miles, we embarked on the short 86-mile ride to our destination in Garden Valley, Idaho. The familiar roads leading to this peaceful haven marked the end of our 2,200-mile adventure. Our matching Suzuki DR-Z400S motorcycles had once again proven their versatility and reliability, carrying us through diverse landscapes and creating a wealth of shared memories across Oregon, Washington, and Idaho.

The familiar buzz of the Suzuki DR-Z400S vibrated beneath me as I set off on a quick but exciting four-day adventure into Oregon and Idaho. June 26th, 2016 – the promise of mountain roads and scenic byways beckoned.

Our first destination was Baker City, Oregon. The miles unfolded, a steady northward cruise on the DR-Z. While primarily on pavement, the anticipation of the more winding roads to come kept the ride engaging. Arriving in Baker City, the Best Western Sunridge Inn offered a comfortable and welcoming stop for the night, a good base to prepare for the mountain passes ahead.

Day two pointed us towards the picturesque town of Joseph, nestled in the shadow of the Wallowa Mountains. The ride was a significant step up in scenic beauty. The roads twisted and turned, climbing through forests and offering breathtaking vistas of the rugged peaks. The DR-Z felt in its element on these more engaging roads. The Eagles View Inn and Suite in Joseph lived up to its name, providing stunning views of the surrounding landscape and a cozy place to rest.

The next leg took us across the state line into Idaho, our destination Lewiston. The terrain transitioned again, with rolling hills and the Snake River carving its dramatic path through the landscape. The ride was a mix of open roads and winding river canyons. The Red Lion Hotel in Lewiston offered a comfortable and convenient stay, a good point to prepare for the final push south.

Our fourth riding day aimed for McCall, Idaho, a beautiful lakeside town. The journey was filled with stunning scenery as we rode alongside rivers and through forests, the air fresh and clean. The DR-Z, despite its single-cylinder nature, proved a capable companion on these scenic byways. America's Best Value in McCall provided a straightforward and affordable place to spend the night before the final ride home.

The following morning, June 30th, we turned the DR-Zs south for the ride back home. This short but satisfying trip through eastern Oregon and western Idaho offered a taste of mountain grandeur and the simple pleasure of the open road on a trusty Suzuki DR-Z400S.

The early June sun warmed the asphalt as  swung my leg over the trusty Suzuki DR-Z400S. This wouldn't be a long, multi-state epic like some previous adventures, but a focused four-day ride into the southeastern corner of Oregon and a quick dip into Idaho. June 8th, 2016 – a solo exploration on the nimble DR-Z.

Our first target was Juntura, Oregon. The miles stretched out, a mix of familiar highways and increasingly rural roads as we ventured further inland. The DR-Z, while not a long-distance touring machine, was surprisingly comfortable for the day's ride. Arriving in Juntura, the Oasis Cafe and Motel lived up to its name – a welcome sight in the sparsely populated landscape. The promise of a good meal and a comfortable bed was much appreciated after a day in the saddle.

Day two took us further east to Ontario, Oregon. The terrain continued to be a mix of open range and agricultural land. The DR-Z handled the changing surfaces with its characteristic agility. Ontario, a larger town than Juntura, offered more amenities, and America's Best Value Inn provided a standard roadside stop for the night.

The next leg was a southward turn towards Jordan Valley, Oregon, a town steeped in Basque heritage. The landscape became more rugged and remote, the roads winding through canyons and across high desert plateaus. The DR-Z felt in its element here, its suspension soaking up the imperfections of the less-traveled roads. The Basque Station Motel in Jordan Valley was a unique and charming find, reflecting the town's distinct cultural identity.

The final day of our short but sweet adventure saw us point the DR-Zs east and briefly cross the state line into Idaho, our destination Garden Valley. The ride was a scenic jaunt through rolling hills and alongside winding rivers. Arriving in Garden Valley felt like reaching a peaceful haven, the lush greenery a contrast to the more arid landscapes of southeastern Oregon. While the trip was short in duration, the diverse scenery and the satisfying feel of exploring on the DR-Z made it a memorable solo escape. The simplicity of the itinerary allowed for a relaxed pace and the freedom to soak in the unique character of each small town and the vastness of the open country.