Peru
2012.04 - Peru
April-May, 2012
Motorcycle: BMW F 800 GS, 24 days, 2200 miles riding
Itinerary:
Lima Arequipa
Puerto Inca
Huacachina
Paracas
Nasca
Chalhuanca
Cusco
Ollantaytambo
Aquas Calientes
Machu Picchu
Quellouno
Pisac
Puno
Titicaca Lake
Moquegua
Arequipa
Chivay
Colca Canyon
Arequipa Tour
Lima, Home
Lima (Hotel Casa Andina Classic - Miraflores San Antonio, then Hotel Jose Antonio) - May 18-22. The capital has 40 museums (best are: Museum of the Republic, Museum of Anthropology and Archeology), nightlife, and spectacular food. Popular airport (LIM). In the center of town, known as Plaza de Armas, you can see the President’s palace and government buildings. Hotel Casa Andina Classic Miraflores San Antonio. pop 8.5 million. We saw: Plaza de Armas & Palacio de Gobierno, Cathedral of Lima and Religious Museum, Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Convento de San Francisco, Iglesia de la Merced, Museo de la Nacion, Museo Larco.
Arequipa (Hotel La Gruta) - Flew from Lima to Arequipa via Peruvian Airlines (Flight package, airport shuttle), met Lars, picked up bikes, stayed at Hotel La Gruta. The “White City” is a colonial-era jewel within reach of smoldering volcanoes and deep canyons. Beautiful colonial homes, churches and monasteries constructed of white volcanic stone. Near El Misti (19,000’), Chachani (20,000’), Pichu Pichu (18,000’), Colca Valley and Colca Canyon, Valley of the Volcanoes, Salinas and Aguada Blanca and the Mejia Lagoons. Monasterio de Santa Catalina (16th century citadel-sized monastery in the city of Arequipa). Population 860,000, Elevation 7700’
Puerto Inca (Hotel Puerto Inca) - First day on bikes. Rode 259 miles, some along Pacific Ocean.
Huacachina / Ica (Hotel El Huacachina / Huacachinero) - Rode 203 miles, portion of Dakar Rally. Visited Chauchilla Cemetary which contains pre-hispanic mummified human remains and archeological artifacts. The oasis of Huacachina features on the back of the 50 Nuevo Sol note. Huacachina is built around a small natural lake in the desert. Resort for Ica families, and tourist spot for sandboarding and dune buggy rides.
Paracas (Hotel Posada del Emancipador) - Dune buggy ride and sand boarding. Rode 90 miles, some through desert. Saw Lagunillas overlooking Pacific Ocean. Paracas is near Islas Ballestas. Major earthquake in 2007. Near epicenter of 8.0-magnitude earthquake in 2007. Approximately 80% of the city was destroyed.
Nasca (Hotel Don Agucho) - Visited Islas Ballestas - Rocky islands off Peru’s southern shore, accessible via 1.5 hour boat journey from El Chaco. Home to sea lions, Humboldt penguins, and boobies. Near Paracas National Reserve. Then, rode 136 miles. Also saw Nasca Lines -- they are mysterious forms of immense figures and lines. Created by the Nazca culture between 400 and 650 AD. Hundreds of figures range from simple lines to stylized hummingbirds, spiders, monkeys, fish, sharks, orcas, llamas, and lizards.
Chalhuanca / Sanayca (Hotel Tampumaya) - Visited animal museum. Rode 225 miles, over 15,000' elevation. Mountains and many curves.
Cusco (Hotel Jose Antonio) - Rode 183 miles. Mountains and many curves. Saw beautiful snowcapped mountains. Met Kathy. Cusco was once the capital of the Inca empire, and then taken by Spanish conquerors. Now a tidal wave of tourism and the gateway to Machu Picchu. Oldest continuously inhabited city in South America and the continent’s archaeological capital. Nearby archeological sites: Sacsayhuaman, Qenqo, Pucapucara, Tambomachay. Population 350,000 and Elevation 10,900’
Ollantaytambo (Hotel Samanapaq) - Rode 70 miles to Sacred Valley. Saw Moray terraces and Maras salt ponds. Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti. He built the town and a ceremonial center in the mid-1400s. It also served as the stronghold for Manco Inca Yupanqui, leader of the native resistance against conquistadors. He later withdrew to the heavily forested site of Vilcambamba. On the Inca Trail. Near horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, river rafting. Population 3000 and Elevation 9200’
Aquas Calientes (Hostal Pachacutec) -- Rode 102 miles. Absolutely breathtaking scenery. Took train from Santa Teresa, then stayed in Aquas Calientes. Aguas Calientes is sometimes call Machupicchu town. Only 3.7 mi from Machu Picchu. Population 5000 and Elevation 6700’
Machu Picchu (Hostal Pachacutec) -- Took taxi, then train to Machu Picchu, visited ruins, climbed to top of Huayna Picchu Mountain, then returned to Hostal Pachacutec in Aquas Calientes). Machu Picchu is an ancient Inca citadel clings to the top of a cloudy, forested peak. Built over 500 years ago, over 7000’ above sea level. Discovered in 1911. Giant stone walls, old temples, luscious green terraces. Located 75 miles from Cuzco. Take train to Agua Caliente, then bus to Machu Picchu. Overlooks a canyon in the Urubamba river and the Andes Mountains. Two must-see temples: Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon. Climb to Huayna Picchu mountain to see entire Machu Picchu and its valley.
Quellouno -- Took train to Santa Teresa, some hiked along tracks. Santa Teresa is located 4 mi NW of Machu Picchu, on the jungle’s edge. The road between Ollantaytambo and Santa Teresa is unpaved, narrow, bordered by deep precipices, with over a hundred dangerous curves! Landslide completely buried the town in 1998. (pop 7400 elev 5100'). From Santa Teresa, we rode 69 miles, all dirt. Many water crossings. Stayed at very dirty hostal in Quellouno. I slept outside.
Pisac (Hotel Royal Inka) - Rode 124 miles, dirt through jungle. Beautiful mountain scenery. Chuck had a head-on collision with a bus, so we spent many hours in the jungle taking care of him, then he was taken to hospital.
Puno (Conde de Lemos Hotel) - Rode 245 miles (some dirt and some asphalt). Mostly at 13,000-14,000' elevation. Met Fletch (world traveler). After Cuzco, Puno is Peru’s most touristed town. On the edge of Lake Titicaca, and a convenient stop between Cuzco and La Paz. Known as Peru's folkloric capital, with religious festivals, bars and restaurants. Population 120,000 and Elevation 12,600'
Titicaca Lake (Conde de Lemos Hotel) -- We rode 41 miles to/from Sullistani. Toured Lake Titicaca, Uros Floating Island. Titicaca Lake is home to floating islands and singular cultures, the world’s highest navigable lake is breathtaking. Sillustani is a pre-Incan burial ground on the shores of Lake Umayo near Puno in Peru. The tombs, which are built above ground in tower-like structures called chullpas, are the vestiges of the Colla people, Aymara who were conquered by the Inca in the 15th century.
Moquegua (Hostal Piura) -- Rode 168 miles, over 15,000' elevation. Saw Puente Bello archeological site.
Arequipa (Hotel La Gruta) -- Rode 167 miles, many twisty dirt roads. Saw beautiful mountainous scenery. Population 860,000 and Elevation 7700’
Chivay (Colca Lodge) -- Rode 111 miles to Colca Canyon. Went over 16,000' mountain pass.
Colca Canyon (Hotel La Gruta) -- Last day of riding. Rode 152 miles in Colca Canyon area. Saw Andean Condors. Went over 16,000' mountain pass. Returned to Arequipa.
Arequipa Tour (Hotel La Gruta) -- No riding today. Toured Arequipa, Monasterio de Santa Catalina. Viewed El Misti, Chachani, Pichu Pichu.
Fly to Lima, then back home